Bordelaise
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A bordelaise sauce in traditional New Orleans-style Louisiana Creole cuisine is different from the French classical version, although both are available in the city. The basic flavor is garlic rather than red wine and bone marrow. Another sauce called "bordelaise" in New Orleans consists of butter, olive oil, shallots, parsley and garlic.[1]
This combination is the foundation of the classic escargots bordelaises, a dish that was available in New Orleans restaurants early in the twentieth century. The association of bordelaise with garlic may have begun with this dish and then shifted to the demi-glace version. A 1904 Creole recipe calls for garlic and parsley in addition to green onions, red wine, beef marrow and "Spanish sauce".[2]
Never had Bordelaise? Think of it as gravy on steroids. It starts with a demi-glace and is combined with a syrupy wine/shallot/herb reduction and blended with unctuous beef bone marrow. Trust me, bordelaise sauce is transformative.
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This recipe is another one of those multi part recipes. The lamb loin chops are easy, as is the celeriac mash. The classic bordelaise sauce is relatively easy but takes a while because you have to make a demi-glace. Now, some of yo may be wondering what is a demi-glace. Well, a demi-glace is a rich, full flavored brown sauce typically served with red meats. It is primarily used as a base for other sauces. Traditionally, demi-glace was made by first making a rich beef stock. The beef stock is then made into an espagnole sauce (brown sauce). You would then take equal parts of espagnole sauce and rich beef stock, along with a bouquet garni, and let it simmer, skimming constantly, for a 1-1/2 to 2 hours until it has reduced by half. Modern chefs now forego the espagnole sauce and make a rich beef stock which they reduce to a syrupy consistency relying upon the natural gelatins in the bones to produce the desired consistency. This new approach provides a more intense, robust sauce that is lighter on the palate.
When I learned how to cook, we were taught the traditional method. I made demi-glace following the traditional method for 20+ years. Only recently, however, have I started following the modern method. It is the modern approach that is used in this recipe. It takes a while to do and only produces a small amount but the resulting bordelaise sauce is stellar and well worth the time and effort. Of course, you could make a larger amount of demi-glace, freeze it and pull it out as needed. The choice is up to you. Demi-glace will keep in the refrigerator for 5 days and freeze for up to 6 months.
Our bordelaise has been praised by so many as the ultimate steak sauce. This painstaking recipe takes us 3 days to make in house. After many requests, we have decided to offer it in our store for retail as well!
When summer is peaking and the mushroom gods bless the woods with rain, there's a few tried and true recipes that don't need any embellishment or re-interpretation. Wild mushrooms bordelaise, and wild mushrooms persillade are the two best examples I know of.
The differences in the end can be slight, but they're worth mentioning since the end result can often be quite different. For example, both of the mushroom recipes I just mentioned are, at the end of the day a pile of sauteed wild mushrooms, but even though they're very, very similar, mushrooms with persillade is not mushrooms bordelaise, and vice-versa.
If you use brown veal stock to make a glace, a gorgeous bordelaise sauce is minutes, not hours, away. Reduce red wine with a few fresh herbs, add stock, a little Madeira to evoke the banished demi-glace, and reduce it a little further. Swirl in some glace, a nub of butter, a squeeze of lemon, some diced beef marrow (if desired), and you have a transcendent sauce for a grilled steak.
Sauté the mushrooms in the butter. Add the mushrooms to the bordelaise. Fold your crêpes into quarters on your plate and ladle the sauce over them or serve the sauce on the side. They can be plated separately or served on a platter.
To best assess if garlic or onion was better for shrimp bordelaise, I decided to cook both versions at the same time, to ensure that different cooking time or cooking method were not factors in the overall outcome of the dish. To prepare, I chopped up carrots and shallots for both dishes, then 1 clove of garlic and 1 tablespoon of onion for the two saucepans. 781b155fdc